Savor the Essence of Our Planet_Interview with Allen Zheng at Drizzle by Fourplay

When searching for natural ingredients for brewing, I am curious to know if those seemingly insignificant, even useless, parts of waste that are cut off and discarded have the opportunity to rebuild their value.

Allen, the proprietor of the esteemed Taipei bar Drizzle by Fourplay

By Sharon Wu, Xin-En Wu

　　With an immaculate hairstyle and a meticulously groomed beard framing his mouth, Allen, the proprietor of the esteemed Taipei bar Drizzle by Fourplay, exudes an air of unwavering focus and precision as he expertly crafts his cocktails. His dedication to his craft has remained steadfast for decades, and he never settles for anything less than excellence. He is a constant innovator, unafraid to experiment with unconventional ingredients to elevate his creations to new heights.

　　Over the decades he's spent honing his craft, the one thing that Allen has always remained tunnel visioned on is his dedication to excellence and innovation. Before the pandemic, Allen was known to frequently jet-set across the globe, from Italy to France, Germany to the United Kingdom, in search of new techniques and inspiration. Honoring Taiwan through his achievements, he was the winner of the 2008 CIROC Cosmopolitan Cocktail Contest and the 2010 Glenfiddich Creative Cocktail Competition, and he secured 2nd Place globally at the 2015 Martin Miller's GIN Creative Cocktail Competition.

　　Through the gracious invitations of liquor merchants and manufacturers, Allen travels the world as a guest bartender and lecturer, learning about sustainable methods of producing bottle stoppers and even the anatomy of liquor bottles. His extensive experience allows him to bring this knowledge back to Taiwan, where he is constantly seeking ways to implement these sustainable practices in his own establishment.

The inherent spirit of sustainability of indigenous tribes who coexist with nature

　　Growing up in Hualien, surrounded by the natural splendor of the mountains and the sea, Allen was fortunate to spend much of his childhood in the company of Indigenous tribes. Though he may not have fully understood the significance of their conservation efforts as a child, as he grew older and witnessed the world grappling with the effects of climate change, Allen came to realize the importance of the ancient wisdom embodied by these people.

　　"Indigenous people have a concept of protecting hunting grounds to prevent animals and natural resources from depleting. They live in harmony with their surroundings, and have always understood the importance of safekeeping hunting grounds and replanting flora to ensure the survival of future generations. Let's take an orange for example; when we want to enjoy a cup of freshly squeezed orange juice, the unused peels are seen as 'trash' and thrown away. Hardly anyone gives it a second thought, let alone ponder how these 'ingredients' can be fully utilized. On the other hand, the indigenous use these very same peels as the base starter for fermenting into wine. Going even further, they also sundry the leftover pulp to create snacks, and even use the seeds as the raw material for seasoning. All indigenous people practice a form of conservation; it is both intuitive and practical, releasing small fish or deer caught in the hunting grounds to grow, and using every part of the food they gather." Allen explains. "In the mountains, resources are not easily accessible, forcing the tribes to adopt a realistic understanding of sustainability from a young age. It's why they often say, 'If you want to eat something, hunt it in the mountains; If you want some seafood tonight, go into the sea.' The mountain is their kitchen, the sea is their fridge, and they remind us that true sustainability is not just about preserving resources for future generations, but also about living in harmony with nature every day."

Sustainability and mixology in harmony: the story of cedar and banana flowers

　　The pandemic was the start of a calamity, but also ushered in a wave of change.

　　"The bar industry is a difficult one to make environmentally friendly, and it's rare to see the association of sustainability and mixology. In the early days of opening my bar, I didn't necessarily have to go in the direction of sustainability, but because of the impact of the pandemic on business, I often went to the mountains to visit the indigenous and wondered if there were any materials I could use. In recent years, the competition in the mixology industry has become more intense, and most mixing materials can be ordered from manufacturers. But if you want special materials, such as high-altitude natural materials, you must find them yourself.

　　When looking for natural materials for mixing, I was curious about what others saw as insignificant and useless waste. I wondered if there was a chance to rebuild the value of things that were discarded or cut away." Allen said.

　　All things possess a particular value, and the question is whether we are willing to delve into their potential with purposeful intent. A cocktail maybe just a fleeting pleasure, but when crafted with care and imbued with storytelling, it can evoke a deeper resonance with those willing to share in its value. For a cocktail to truly tell a story, every ingredient must play a part in the narrative, and their flavors must be deeply rooted in the heart, allowing the drinker to taste and smell as if they are fully immersed in the natural environment of the ingredients. This is where a skilled mixologist brings out the potential of ingredients and weaves a tale through their creations. Allen, always conscientious and mindful of the background of the ingredients used in his cocktails, takes the time to research and understand the history and significance of each ingredient before incorporating them into his masterpieces.

　　"Recently, I ventured into the mountains to gather cedar leaves for my cocktails. This plant holds a rich history. During the Japanese colonial period, the Taiping Mountain in Yilan was home to valuable, sought-after cypress forests. Taiwan cypress was highly prized at the time, so it was directly transported to ports and shipped to Japan to be used as building materials for shrines, torii gates, and palaces. This is why you'll find that much of the beautiful architecture is made of Taiwan cypress. However, cypress trees take 400 to 600 years to mature before they can be cut down. At that time, there was no concept of sustainability, and the cut-down tree roots could no longer photosynthesize; the dead roots remained twisted in the soil, for if the roots were pulled out, the land would become highly unstable, with landslides easily occurring. Tens of thousands of cypress trees died on Taiping Mountain, and all we could do was watch as these lands were defiled." Allen recounts.

　　"The government at the time also noticed this, so they began to encourage reforestation, encouraging farmers to plant Japanese cedar. Japanese cedar trees are tall and straight, reaching over ten meters in height, it is the perfect material for building materials, and their growth period is much shorter than Taiwan cypress, only around 40 to 70 years, which makes them economically efficient. That's why large areas of nearly 200,000 hectares of forest in Taiwan are Japanese cedar." Allen said.

Cedar Gin Fizz－

Capturing eternity in the essence of the mountains and forests Cedar Gin Fizz tells the story of the Earth

　　Stepping into the forest, inhaling the moist air laced with the rich scent of soil, Allen gazed up to behold towering Japanese cedar trees standing tall amidst the clouds and mist. Pausing for a moment, he can't help but notice fallen cedar leaves lying on the ground, intertwined with the soil for an immeasurable period, as if time has stood still. Even though they have fallen for no one knows how long, they still shone with a vibrant green color, making their presence impossible to overlook.

　　"Accompanied by a master of mountains, I embarked on a journey up the mountain, following natural animal tracks, my hands and feet covered in dirt and moss. After strenuous efforts, we finally reached the cedar forest. I saw the lush green cypress leaves and casually asked, 'Have these leaves just fallen?' To my surprise, he replied that these leaves have been on the ground for over a year! My mountain guide explained that the temperature, humidity, and altitude of the high mountains act like a natural refrigerator, preserving the moisture and sealing in the aroma, leaving all the flavors in the cedar leaves. How astounding! The question then arises, how can we perfectly capture this natural aroma and bring it back to society to make cocktails?" Allen recounted with awe.

　　Moss, the oldest plant on earth, is the most reflective of the earth's flavor, combined with the subtle and indescribable wooden qualities of the cedar leaves. Allen ingeniously incorporates the unique flavor of the original mountain forest water into classic cocktails. The cedar Gin Fizz captures the natural essence of the forest.

　　"After we brought the green cedar leaves down the mountain, they quickly turned red, which meant that the leaves were dying. We put a lot of effort into bringing the leaves down the mountain, immediately putting them into the refrigerator to maintain their temperature, also sprinkling water and spreading crushed ice over them to maintain the humidity, all in an effort to create a pseudo-mountain-forest environment to maintain the freshness of the leaves. Before making the cocktail, I froze the leaves, sealing in the taste of moss, rainwater, and the leaves. This creates a flavor people can't usually taste in urban areas." Allen eloquently explains his process, showcasing the effort and dedication to creating a truly unique and evocative experience for the palate.

Cedar Gin Fizz

The metamorphosis of banana flowers

　　Bananas are a fruit that most of us are familiar with, but few have had the opportunity to experience the taste of a banana flower. In order for bananas to grow large and sweet, farmers often cut off and discard the banana flowers. Without proper treatment, the taste of banana flowers is nothing more than just poignant bitterness.

　　"In order to remove the bitter taste of banana flowers, I experimented with soaking the banana flowers in sauvignon blanc for three days, then coating them in rice flour and frying them at a low temperature. Finally, I seasoned them with maqaw salt (a type of mountain pepper, also known as litsea or may chang). The result is a delicacy similar in taste to daylilies (a.k.a. ditch lilies) but with a slightly chewy texture. They are savory and crispy upon first taste, with a slightly bitter aftertaste; a layered and highly unique experience."

　　Discovering the potential of ingredients and not giving up on the possibilities of all ingredients is Allen's goal and mission. The transmutation of the bitterness of banana flowers into a delicate appetizer perfectly captures Allen's dedication to his craft. He continues recalling his journey: "Coexisting with nature may seem to be at odds with civilization and technology. I don't dare say that I am an environmentally friendly bartender. I may not be capable enough to make a significant impact on environmentalism, but at least I can avoid wasting and try to make the most of the resources obtained instead of throwing them away." Allen continues, "For example, many bartenders use tea to make cocktails, but most tea leaves are only used once, and most bartenders discard them. So, we dry some of the tea leaves and then fry them, plus a slight seasoning; we make the tea leaves taste like fried seaweed so we can use them on risotto. We also blend them to make tea leaf powder, add egg yolks, a little sugar, and flour to make cookies, which can be used as ingredients for cocktails." Allen's approach is delicious, responsible, and mindful of sustainability.

Far away from home

An ideal symbiotic ecosystem urban bar - Drizzle

　　For Allen, simply researching sustainable cocktails and dishes was not enough, he transformed Drizzle into a space in harmony with nature. He transplanted long-term residents of the store － a tea tree, into the space. The native highaltitude tea tree in the store's air conditioning and lighting are in sync with its natural patterns, not only taking care of the tree itself but also the 48 species of symbiotic plants that initially coexisted with it, preserving the natural ecosystem in its entirety. The 4000 KW full-spectrum daylight lamp allows the tea tree to photosynthesize from 3 am to 11 am daily.

　　"We are committed to fostering a holistic, sustainable ecosystem where the three pillars of life - sunlight, air, and water - seamlessly coexist. Our tea tree and aquarium symbiotically sustain each other, with the puffer fish in the water removing harmful snails and the shrimp maintaining optimal water quality by controlling algae growth. The dead fish, in turn, provide nourishment for the tea tree by producing beneficial bacteria. Every organism contributes uniquely to this delicate balance," Allen explains. "Our guests often remark on the seemingly excessive cool air in our establishment," Allen adds with a chuckle. "Often we hear our guests mention, 'your air conditioning is quite cold, can you turn it down a bit?' But I'll always reply, 'would you like a blanket instead?' Because the air conditioning is for the tea tree. You may come for two hours and leave, but the tea tree is a permanent resident.

A good bartender should understand how much of an impact you can have, not just how many drinks you can make.

 

　　A mentor once imparted upon Allen the phrase that has stayed with him ever since, as a young bartender, his focus was on honing his own abilities, but as he has matured and accumulated life experiences, he now believes that being a good bartender means contemplating one's own position in the industry.

　　"Sustainability" has only recently gained traction, but in reality, it's something that the aboriginal people have been practicing since ancient times. I believe that if I can learn the mountains' ways and present them in a way that is familiar to me and let city folk understand the taste and the stories behind it, that is fulfilling enough for me. If the impact of one cocktail and one story reaches just one-tenth of its drinkers, and if two hundred thousand people have had that drink, then the world will have an additional twenty thousand people who have the opportunity to spread the concept of sustainability and influence others. This is something that I will always maintain my aspiration for", Allen says with much compassion.

　　Being willing to do things that others wouldn't do has set Allen apart, and it is his constant progress that has enabled him to stand out in such a competitive industry. By creating a space that coexists with nature, he not only creates delicious and sustainable cocktails but also educates and raises awareness about the importance of sustainability to his customers. Allen's approach is not only innovative but also responsible and mindful of the industry's impact on the environment.